Weeds between pavers are one of those annoyances that can make an otherwise beautiful patio, walkway, or driveway look messy fast. And the frustrating part is that weeds don’t show up because you “did something wrong” once—they show up because the gaps between pavers are basically tiny, protected micro-gardens where wind-blown seeds can settle, get a sip of water, and take off.
The good news: you can absolutely get ahead of weeds between pavers, and you don’t have to spend every weekend pulling little green sprouts. The less-good news: some popular “solutions” either don’t last, can damage your hardscape, or create bigger problems later. This guide walks through what actually works, what doesn’t, and how to choose a method that fits your patio style, your time, and Toronto’s freeze-thaw reality.
Why weeds love paver joints (and why they keep coming back)
Before you pick a strategy, it helps to understand what you’re fighting. Weeds between pavers usually come from seeds that land in the joint material (sand, soil, debris). They’re not typically “coming up from below” through a solid base—though if the base is compromised, you can get growth from deeper layers too.
Joint lines collect organic matter: dust, pollen, tiny leaf fragments, and dirt tracked in from shoes or pets. Add moisture from rain or irrigation, and you’ve got a perfect germination zone. In Toronto, spring and early summer bring the ideal combination of warmth and intermittent rain, and weeds can pop up seemingly overnight.
There’s also the “invisible” factor: even if you pull weeds, the seeds remain. Many weed seeds can sit dormant for a long time, waiting for conditions to be right. That’s why a one-time cleanup rarely stays perfect without a plan to keep joints inhospitable.
Start by figuring out what’s actually growing
Not everything green between pavers is the same problem. If you’re dealing with soft, shallow-rooted weeds (like chickweed or small grasses), you can often solve it with joint stabilization and routine maintenance. If you’re dealing with tougher perennial weeds (like dandelion or plantain), you’ll need a more aggressive removal step before you lock joints down.
Moss is its own category. Moss thrives in damp, shaded areas and doesn’t behave like typical weeds. If your joints are green and fuzzy rather than sprouting stems and leaves, you may be dealing with moisture and shade more than “weeds” in the traditional sense.
Knowing what you have also helps you avoid overcorrecting. For example, if the main issue is moss from shade and poor drainage, dumping more sand into joints without addressing moisture can lead to repeat growth and a gritty surface that washes out.
The foundation matters more than most people think
If weeds are a constant battle, it’s worth asking whether the pavers were installed with the right base and edging. A solid base doesn’t just keep pavers level—it reduces how much soil and organic debris migrates into joints over time. It also helps water drain properly, which makes the surface less welcoming to growth.
In Toronto’s climate, freeze-thaw cycles can shift pavers and open up joints. When joints widen, they catch more debris, hold more moisture, and become easier for weeds to establish. If you notice uneven pavers, rocking stones, or widening gaps, you may be dealing with a structural issue more than a maintenance issue.
Edge restraints also play a big role. When edges aren’t secured, pavers can spread slightly under foot traffic or driveway loads. That movement breaks down joint material and creates the perfect conditions for weeds to take hold. Fixing edges and resetting problem areas can make every weed-prevention method work better and last longer.
What actually works: the methods that hold up
Polymeric sand (when installed correctly)
Polymeric sand is one of the most reliable ways to reduce weeds between pavers because it hardens in the joints after activation with water. Once cured, it creates a more stable, less seed-friendly surface than plain sand. It also helps resist ants and reduces joint washout.
But polymeric sand has a reputation for “not working” because it’s easy to install incorrectly. If joints aren’t cleaned out first, you’re essentially locking weeds and organic matter under a crust. If the sand isn’t compacted properly into the joints, it can crack or erode. If you overwater during activation, you can wash the binder out and end up with weak joints that crumble.
For best results, you need dry conditions, clean joints, and the right joint depth. You also need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your paver type—some polymeric sands are better for narrow joints, others for wider joints. Done properly, it’s one of the most “set it and forget it” options available.
Joint stabilization plus regular sweeping
Even with polymeric sand, sweeping is underrated. A quick sweep removes the organic debris that turns into soil. If you keep the surface clean, you reduce the “seed bed” that weeds need to sprout.
This doesn’t mean you need to be out there every day. In practice, sweeping after mowing, after heavy leaf drop, and after big storms is enough for most households. Think of it like cleaning gutters—small, consistent effort prevents a bigger headache later.
If you prefer a more natural approach, stabilized jointing materials (including some newer permeable jointing products) can help too. The key is that joints should be firm enough to resist erosion but not so loose that they become dirt traps.
Flame weeding (used carefully)
A propane torch (flame weeder) can be surprisingly effective for quick control, especially for tiny seedlings. The goal isn’t to incinerate weeds—it’s to heat them enough to rupture plant cells so they wilt and die over the next day or two.
Used properly, flame weeding is fast and chemical-free. It’s especially helpful for weeds that pop up in clusters after rain. However, it’s not a permanent fix by itself, because it doesn’t prevent new seeds from germinating later.
Safety matters here. Keep the flame away from dry leaves, mulch, and any structure siding. Avoid using it during drought conditions or on windy days. If your pavers are near gas lines, irrigation components, or anything sensitive, it may not be the right tool.
Targeted spot treatment (when you truly need it)
Sometimes the reality is that a few stubborn weeds won’t quit, especially perennials with deep taproots. In those cases, a targeted herbicide spot treatment can be effective—emphasis on targeted. Spraying the entire patio because of a handful of weeds is overkill and can create runoff concerns.
If you go this route, choose a product suitable for hardscapes and follow label directions carefully. Apply on a calm day, avoid overspray, and keep pets and kids away until it’s dry. You’ll still want to address the joint material afterward, because killing weeds doesn’t stop new seeds from landing.
Many homeowners find a “hybrid approach” works best: remove existing weeds, stabilize joints, and then only spot treat the occasional stubborn regrowth.
What doesn’t work (or works for a week and then disappoints)
Boiling water as a main strategy
Boiling water can kill small weeds, and it feels satisfyingly simple. The problem is that it’s usually a surface-level fix. It doesn’t remove the conditions that let weeds grow in the first place, and it doesn’t fill or stabilize joints.
It’s also not as practical as it sounds for larger patios or long walkways. Carrying pots of boiling water around is awkward and risky. And if you’re doing it repeatedly, you’re investing a lot of time for short-lived results.
As a one-off “I need this cleaned up before guests arrive” tactic, it can help. As a long-term plan, it tends to become a recurring chore.
Vinegar and salt mixes
Homemade weed killers—often vinegar, salt, and dish soap—are popular online. Vinegar can burn foliage, and salt can kill plants by dehydrating them. The issue is that salt doesn’t just affect the weed; it can accumulate and damage nearby plants, stain surfaces, and affect soil health along the edges of your patio.
Vinegar (especially higher-concentration horticultural vinegar) can also etch or discolor certain surfaces and can irritate skin and eyes. And like boiling water, it’s mostly a top-kill method for many weeds unless applied repeatedly.
If you have garden beds bordering your pavers, salt-based solutions are especially risky. It’s one of those “seems harmless” hacks that can quietly create bigger problems.
Pressure washing without re-sanding
Pressure washing can make pavers look brand new, and it can blast out weeds. But it also removes joint material. If you pressure wash and don’t replace the sand (and ideally stabilize it), you’ve basically opened up the joints and invited weeds to move in even faster.
Another issue is that aggressive pressure washing can damage the surface of some pavers, especially older or softer ones, leaving them more porous and prone to staining. It can also undermine the bedding layer if you get too close or use too much pressure.
If you love the look of freshly washed pavers, go for it—just plan to re-sand afterward and consider polymeric sand to reduce future washout.
“Just pull them” as the only plan
Hand-pulling weeds is fine for maintenance, but it’s rarely a complete solution. Many weeds break off at the stem, leaving roots behind. And even if you pull perfectly, you’re still left with open, loose joints that will collect debris and new seeds.
Pulling also tends to disturb joint material. Every time you yank a weed, you may remove a bit of sand, gradually creating deeper gaps that hold more moisture and organic matter.
Hand-pulling works best as part of a system: remove weeds, clean joints, and then lock things down so fewer weeds come back.
A practical step-by-step plan that most homeowners can handle
Step 1: Remove existing weeds thoroughly
Start with mechanical removal: pull, scrape, or use a weeding tool to get as much root as possible. For larger areas, a stiff wire brush can help dislodge small weeds and moss from the joint lines.
If you’re dealing with thick growth, consider doing a first pass to clear the bulk, then return a week later for any regrowth before you move on to joint stabilization. That second pass catches the weeds that survived the first round and prevents you from sealing them under new joint material.
Dispose of pulled weeds rather than leaving them on the surface. Even uprooted weeds can drop seeds or re-root in damp conditions.
Step 2: Clean out the joints (this is where results are made)
To get long-lasting results, joints should be cleared of loose debris and old, contaminated sand. You don’t necessarily need to remove every grain, but you do want to eliminate the “compost layer” that forms from dust and organic matter.
You can do this with a joint cleaning tool, a narrow scraper, or careful pressure washing (with the understanding you’ll re-sand afterward). The goal is to create a clean space where new sand can settle and compact properly.
Let the area dry well before adding polymeric sand. Moisture in the joints can cause premature activation and clumping, which leads to weak spots and future cracking.
Step 3: Refill joints with the right material
For many patios and walkways, polymeric sand is the sweet spot: it reduces weeds, resists washout, and looks tidy. Sweep it in, compact it (a plate compactor with a protective pad is ideal for larger areas), then top up and sweep again until joints are full.
If you have permeable pavers or a system designed for drainage, make sure you choose a jointing product compatible with permeable installations. Using the wrong sand can reduce permeability and create drainage issues.
Once joints are full and compacted, sweep the surface thoroughly. Leftover haze can harden on the pavers and be difficult to remove later.
Step 4: Activate and cure properly
Activation is where many DIY installs go sideways. You want gentle, even watering that moistens the sand without washing it out. A shower-style nozzle is usually better than a jet spray.
After activation, keep foot traffic off the area for the recommended time (often 24–48 hours) and avoid heavy rain if possible. If a downpour hits before the sand cures, you may get erosion or uneven bonding.
Once cured, you’ll have a more stable joint surface that’s much less inviting for weeds.
Material choices that make weed prevention easier from day one
If you’re building a new patio or replacing an old one, your material and supplier choices can reduce weed issues long-term. Consistent paver sizing, good edge restraints, and compatible jointing products all contribute to fewer gaps and less joint breakdown.
It also helps to source materials from a place that understands local conditions and typical residential installs. If you’re comparing options and want to see hardscape materials in person, a stone yard in Toronto ON can be a helpful stop—especially if you want guidance on what joint widths, base materials, and edging systems pair well with the look you’re after.
Even small choices—like selecting pavers with built-in spacer nibs or choosing a joint width that suits polymeric sand—can make weed prevention easier for the lifetime of the patio.
Keeping weeds away without wrecking your pavers
Be careful with sealers (they’re not a weed shield)
Paver sealers are often marketed like a cure-all, but they don’t stop weeds by themselves. Weeds grow in joints, and sealing the top surface doesn’t prevent seeds from landing in sand-filled gaps.
That said, sealers can help with staining and can make routine cleaning easier. Some sealers also help stabilize joint sand when used with compatible products, but you need to match the system correctly.
If you seal, do it after joints are properly filled and cured. Sealing too soon can trap moisture and lead to hazing or poor adhesion.
Manage water and shade where you can
Weeds (and moss) love moisture. If downspouts dump water onto your patio, consider redirecting them. If sprinklers hit the hardscape daily, adjust the heads. Small changes to water patterns can make a big difference in regrowth.
Shade is another factor, especially for moss. Trimming back dense shrubs, improving airflow, and letting sunlight reach the surface can reduce persistent green growth. You don’t need to remove all shade—just be aware that deeply shaded, damp areas may need more frequent maintenance.
Drainage matters too. If water pools on the surface, it will carry fines into joints and encourage growth. Addressing low spots or resetting a few pavers can pay off more than repeated chemical treatments.
When weeds signal a bigger issue: shifting, sinking, and crumbling joints
If your pavers are moving, weeds can be a symptom rather than the main problem. Movement breaks down joint material and creates gaps that catch debris. If you’re repeatedly re-sanding the same areas, it’s worth checking whether the base has settled or the edge restraint has failed.
Driveways are especially sensitive. Vehicle loads can cause subtle shifts over time, and once water gets into a weakened base, freeze-thaw can accelerate the damage. In those cases, a proper repair might involve lifting pavers, re-leveling the base, and reinstalling with fresh jointing material.
For larger hardscape projects—like a new driveway apron, steps, or a structural slab adjacent to pavers—having access to the right materials matters. If you’re coordinating a project that needs precise quantities delivered efficiently, Toronto volumetric concrete can be a practical option because it allows for accurate batching on site and can reduce waste compared to ordering a fixed-load truck.
Weed barriers and landscape fabric: useful in the right place, disappointing in others
Landscape fabric is often recommended as a weed barrier under pavers, but it’s not a magic layer that stops everything forever. Fabric can help separate soil from base aggregate and reduce mixing, which supports long-term stability. But weeds can still grow from seeds that land on top of the fabric in the joint material.
In other words: fabric can help with base integrity, but it doesn’t replace proper jointing. If the top layer becomes a dirt-filled gap, weeds will grow there whether or not fabric is underneath.
Also, in some installations, fabric can interfere with drainage if it clogs with fines. Many pros prefer geotextiles in specific layers and locations rather than a one-size-fits-all approach. If you’re rebuilding, it’s worth matching the barrier approach to your soil and drainage needs.
Seasonal timing in Toronto: when to tackle weeds for best results
Spring: get ahead of the first flush
Spring is prime time for weed prevention because you can address seedlings before they mature and drop more seeds. A thorough spring cleanup—sweeping, joint inspection, and spot removal—sets the tone for the rest of the season.
If you plan to re-sand with polymeric sand, late spring is often a good window: temperatures are warmer, and you can usually find a dry stretch for curing. Avoid installing polymeric sand when nights are cold or rain is forecast immediately.
Spring is also a good time to check for winter damage. If you see heaving or spreading, fix those issues early before they become bigger repairs.
Summer: maintenance mode, not major rehab
In summer, weeds can grow fast, but they’re also easier to control with quick interventions like flame weeding or spot pulling—especially if joints are already stable.
Summer heat can dry out joint material, which helps reduce germination, but sudden storms can wash in debris. A quick sweep after storms is one of the simplest ways to keep joints clean.
If you’re planning major pressure washing, be mindful that hot weather can cause some cleaners to dry too quickly and leave residue. Rinse thoroughly and re-sand promptly.
Fall: clean joints before winter locks everything in
Fall leaf drop is basically “future soil” for your paver joints. The more organic matter that sits and breaks down over winter, the more weeds you’ll see in spring.
A thorough fall sweep (or blower pass) is a high-impact, low-effort habit. If you have trees overhanging your patio, you may need to do it a few times during peak leaf season.
Fall is also a good time to top up joint sand in small areas that have settled. Going into winter with full joints reduces water infiltration and can help limit freeze-thaw damage.
Common mistakes that make weeds worse
One big mistake is leaving joints partially empty. Even small depressions collect water and debris, creating a perfect seedbed. If you notice sand levels dropping, top them up before weeds take advantage.
Another mistake is using the wrong sand. Playground sand or very fine sand can wash out quickly. Masonry sand may work in some cases, but polymeric sand is usually better for weed resistance. The right choice depends on joint width, paver type, and whether the area needs permeability.
Finally, many people underestimate the importance of compaction. If sand isn’t compacted into joints, it settles later, leaving voids. Compaction isn’t glamorous, but it’s one of the biggest differences between a patio that stays clean and one that constantly sprouts weeds.
Design tweaks that reduce weed pressure over time
If you’re planning a refresh, consider joint width and pattern. Wider joints can look great with certain styles, but they also provide more space for debris and seeds. If you love the look of wider joints, choose a jointing material designed for that application and be more diligent about keeping the surface clean.
Border details matter too. Soil and mulch from adjacent beds can migrate onto pavers during heavy rain. A small edging strip, a slightly raised border course, or a clean gravel strip can reduce how much “dirt” ends up in your joints.
And if you’re adding new features like a sitting wall, steps, or a garden edge, plan your material logistics so you’re not stuck with last-minute substitutions. For example, if you’re coordinating a hardscape project and need specific units delivered on schedule, arranging bricks delivery ahead of time can keep the build moving and reduce the temptation to cut corners on base prep or joint finishing.
A realistic maintenance rhythm (so it doesn’t feel endless)
Most people don’t want a patio that requires constant attention. The trick is to build a routine that’s light but consistent, and to choose a jointing approach that does most of the heavy lifting.
A simple rhythm looks like this: sweep occasionally, remove a few weeds when you notice them (before they get big), and do one deeper clean-and-inspect session in spring and fall. If you’ve installed polymeric sand properly, your “weed season” will be dramatically quieter.
And if you do see weeds, treat them as a signal. A few weeds here and there are normal—wind will always bring seeds. But if you’re seeing widespread growth, it’s usually telling you the joints are loose, dirty, or eroding, and it’s time to refresh the joint material rather than just fighting the plants.
Quick troubleshooting guide for stubborn cases
If weeds return within days of removal
If you pull weeds and they’re back almost immediately, you may be dealing with fast-growing annuals plus a joint full of debris. In that case, focus less on killing and more on cleaning and joint stabilization.
Do a thorough joint cleanout, let everything dry, then install polymeric sand. Follow curing instructions closely. This is often the turning point for patios that have been “weedy for years.”
Also check whether soil is washing onto the pavers from nearby beds. Fixing that source can reduce repeat problems.
If you see moss more than weeds
Moss suggests shade and moisture. Start by improving sunlight and airflow if possible, and reduce water inputs (like overspray from sprinklers). Then clean the surface with a stiff brush and consider a moss-specific treatment if needed.
After moss removal, refill joints so they don’t become empty channels that stay damp. Some jointing products resist moss better than plain sand, but moisture management is still the main lever.
If the area is permanently shaded and damp, accept that you may need periodic moss control—similar to how shaded decks need occasional cleaning.
If joints keep washing out
Washout usually points to water flow or insufficient compaction. Look for downspouts, slopes, or runoff paths that funnel water across the surface. Redirecting water can reduce erosion dramatically.
Switching from plain sand to polymeric sand can help, but only if the underlying conditions are reasonable. If water is actively channeling through joints, you may need to address grading or drainage first.
Also check for missing edge restraints or spreading pavers. Movement creates gaps, and gaps invite erosion.
Stopping weeds between pavers isn’t about finding a single magic product—it’s about making the joints a place where seeds can’t easily settle, moisture doesn’t linger, and the surface stays stable through Toronto’s seasons. Once you get that balance right, weeds go from a constant battle to an occasional, manageable task.