A roof inspection can feel a bit mysterious until you’ve actually watched one happen. Most homeowners know it’s important, but they’re not always sure what’s being checked, what “good” looks like, and which findings are truly urgent versus “keep an eye on it.” The result is that many people either put inspections off for too long—or they panic when they hear a few unfamiliar terms.
This checklist is here to make the whole process clear and practical. You’ll learn what a thorough roof inspection typically includes, what you can safely check yourself, and when it’s time to bring in a pro. If you live in a place with real seasons (hello, wind, ice, and surprise spring storms), understanding your roof’s condition isn’t just nice to have—it’s one of the best ways to avoid expensive water damage.
While you can absolutely use this as a DIY guide for spotting issues from the ground and inside your attic, a professional inspection goes deeper. Pros know where problems start, how they spread, and which small warning signs usually turn into bigger repairs. The goal is to catch things early and keep your home dry, comfortable, and energy-efficient.
Why roof inspections matter more than most people think
Your roof is a system, not just shingles. It includes layers that shed water, manage heat, and allow your home to “breathe” without letting moisture build up. When one part of that system is compromised—like flashing around a chimney or a clogged valley—it can create a chain reaction that shows up months later as stains, mold, or warped wood.
Inspections help you get ahead of that chain reaction. They’re also useful when you’re planning other home projects (like new insulation, solar panels, or a skylight), because roof condition affects the timing and cost of everything else up there.
And if you’ve had a recent storm, an inspection can be the difference between a simple fix and a slow leak that quietly damages your attic and ceilings. A roof can look “fine” from the driveway and still have lifted shingles, punctures, or loosened flashing that only shows up when the rain hits at the right angle.
Timing your inspection: when to book one (and when to do a quick check yourself)
A good rule of thumb is to schedule a professional roof inspection once a year, and also after major weather events. In areas with freeze-thaw cycles, the shoulder seasons—spring and fall—are especially smart times to check in. Spring inspections catch winter damage; fall inspections help you prepare for snow loads and ice.
That said, you don’t need to wait for an annual appointment to pay attention. If you notice something changing—like a new water spot on the ceiling, a musty smell in the attic, or shingle granules collecting in your gutters—those are your roof waving a little flag.
If you’re comfortable staying on the ground, a quick visual scan with binoculars can be surprisingly helpful. Look for missing shingles, dark patches, sagging lines, or anything that looks “off” compared to the rest of the roof plane. If anything stands out, it’s worth getting a closer professional look.
Safety first: what homeowners should (and shouldn’t) do
Let’s be honest: rooftops aren’t the place to test your balance. Even a single-storey roof can be dangerous, especially if it’s steep, wet, icy, or covered in debris. A proper inspection often involves walking the roof, checking edges, and testing materials—tasks that are safest for trained professionals with the right equipment.
As a homeowner, your best DIY inspection happens in three places: from the ground outside, inside the attic, and around your home’s perimeter where water drains. You can learn a lot without ever leaving solid footing.
If you do decide to climb a ladder for a closer look at gutters or soffits, make sure it’s stable, placed correctly, and that you have a spotter. Avoid stepping onto the roof surface unless you’re experienced and conditions are dry and safe.
Exterior checklist: what gets inspected on the roof surface
Shingles (or other roofing material): wear, damage, and aging
The most visible part of an inspection is the roofing material itself—most commonly asphalt shingles. Inspectors look for missing shingles, cracked tabs, curling edges, bald spots where granules have worn away, and areas that look patched or uneven.
Granule loss is a big one. Those tiny granules protect shingles from UV damage. When they’re gone, shingles age faster and become brittle. You might notice granules in your gutters or downspouts, which can be normal in small amounts, but heavy accumulation can signal accelerated wear.
Inspectors also check for “shingle lifting,” which can happen after wind events. A lifted shingle might settle back down and look fine from a distance—but the seal can be broken, making it more likely to blow off later or allow water intrusion.
Roof valleys: the water highways that need to stay clear
Valleys are where two roof planes meet, and they handle a lot of water flow. Because they’re high-traffic areas for water, they’re also common leak locations when debris builds up or flashing fails.
During an inspection, valleys are checked for rusted or exposed metal, cracked sealant, lifted edges, and debris like leaves and branches. Even a small blockage can force water sideways under shingles.
If your home is surrounded by mature trees, valleys deserve extra attention. A little routine cleaning and a quick check after storms can prevent a lot of hidden damage.
Flashing: the detail work that prevents most leaks
Flashing is the thin metal (or sometimes other materials) installed around roof penetrations and transitions—chimneys, skylights, vents, dormers, and where the roof meets a wall. It’s one of the most important parts of the roof system, and it’s also where many leaks start.
Inspectors look for gaps, corrosion, bent sections, missing fasteners, and dried or cracked sealant. They’ll also check whether flashing was installed correctly in the first place. Poor installation can work for a while, then fail as materials expand and contract through seasons.
Chimney flashing gets special attention because masonry joints can crack over time. If the mortar or chimney cap is deteriorating, water can enter and travel into the roof structure, sometimes showing up far away from the chimney itself.
Roof penetrations: vents, pipes, and all the little openings
Your roof has more openings than most people realize: plumbing vent stacks, bathroom fan vents, kitchen vents, attic vents, and sometimes satellite mounts or solar attachments. Each penetration is a potential weak point.
Vent boots (the rubber or flexible seals around pipes) are a frequent culprit for leaks. They can crack, shrink, or pull away from the pipe over time. An inspector checks for splits, gaps, and signs of water staining around the opening.
They’ll also verify that vents are actually venting outside properly. For example, a bathroom fan that dumps moist air into the attic can create condensation issues that look like a roof leak—but are really a ventilation problem.
Gutters, downspouts, and drainage: where roof problems often reveal themselves
Gutters are part of the roof’s water management system. If they’re clogged, sagging, or improperly sloped, water can back up under shingles, overflow onto fascia boards, or pool near your foundation.
A roof inspection usually includes checking that gutters are securely fastened, free of heavy debris, and draining properly through downspouts. Inspectors may also look for granules, shingle fragments, or rust—clues about what’s happening above.
Downspouts should direct water away from the home. If water is dumping right beside your foundation, it can cause basement issues and also splash back onto siding and soffits, creating rot over time.
Edge and structure checklist: the parts you don’t notice until they fail
Fascia, soffits, and drip edge: the roof’s “trim” that does heavy lifting
Fascia boards run along the roof edge and support your gutters. Soffits sit underneath the overhang and often contain ventilation intake vents. The drip edge is the metal edging that helps guide water into the gutters and protects the roof deck edge.
Inspectors look for rot, peeling paint, soft wood, staining, and signs of animal activity. If water has been overflowing gutters for a while, fascia damage is common.
They’ll also check whether the drip edge is present and properly installed. Missing or poorly installed drip edge can allow water to wick back onto the roof deck, which can lead to swelling, rot, and shingle failure along the edges.
Roof decking and sagging: spotting structural warning signs
The roof deck is the wood layer under shingles. From the outside, inspectors may look for dips, waves, or sagging lines that suggest decking damage or structural issues. From the attic, they can sometimes see moisture stains, mold, or delamination.
Sagging doesn’t always mean a roof is about to collapse, but it is always worth investigating. It can be caused by long-term moisture, undersized framing, or old repairs that weren’t done correctly.
Even subtle soft spots can be a clue that water has been getting in for a while. A thorough inspection helps determine whether the issue is localized (a repair) or widespread (possibly a larger project).
Chimneys, masonry, and caps: water entry points in disguise
Chimneys are exposed to weather on all sides, and their materials expand and contract differently than roofing materials. That’s why the intersection between chimney and roof is so sensitive.
Inspectors check chimney caps, crowns, mortar joints, and flashing. A cracked crown or missing cap can allow water into the chimney structure, which then migrates into the attic or walls.
If you don’t use your chimney often, it’s easy to ignore it—but it still needs to stay watertight. Small masonry repairs can prevent much more expensive interior damage later.
Inside-the-home checklist: attic and ceiling clues that matter
Attic moisture, staining, and mold: what “roof leaks” can look like
One of the most valuable parts of a roof inspection happens inside the attic. Water doesn’t always drip straight down; it can travel along rafters or decking and show up far from the entry point. That’s why attic inspection is so important for pinpointing the real source.
Inspectors look for dark stains on wood, wet insulation, mold growth, and rusted nails. They may also check for daylight showing through the roof deck (which can indicate holes or gaps).
Not every moisture issue is a roof leak, though. Condensation from poor ventilation can create similar staining and mold patterns. A good inspector will differentiate between leak tracks and ventilation-related moisture.
Insulation condition: comfort, energy bills, and hidden problems
Wet or compressed insulation doesn’t work properly. If insulation is damp, it can also become a breeding ground for mold and can contribute to wood rot. During an inspection, the condition and placement of insulation often gets reviewed, especially in areas near vents and eaves.
Inspectors may check for uneven coverage, gaps, or signs that insulation has been disturbed by pests. They might also note whether insulation is blocking soffit vents, which can reduce airflow and increase condensation risk.
Even if your roof covering is in decent shape, insulation and ventilation issues can shorten its lifespan. Heat escaping into the attic can lead to ice damming in winter, and excessive attic heat can age shingles faster in summer.
Ceilings and walls: the living-space signals you shouldn’t ignore
Inside your home, water damage can show up as yellow or brown ceiling stains, bubbling paint, peeling drywall tape, or a soft spot that feels spongy to the touch. Sometimes it’s obvious after a heavy rain; other times it develops slowly.
Inspectors may ask where you’ve noticed staining or musty odors so they can trace the issue back to the roof or attic. If you’ve had intermittent leaks, share that timing—“only during wind-driven rain” is a helpful clue.
It’s also worth noting that plumbing leaks can mimic roof leaks. A thorough inspection helps rule out other causes so you’re not repairing the wrong thing.
Ventilation checklist: how airflow protects your roof
Intake and exhaust balance: the secret to a healthier attic
Roof ventilation is about moving fresh air in and pushing warm, moist air out. Most systems rely on intake vents (often in soffits) and exhaust vents (like ridge vents, roof vents, or gable vents). If one side is missing or blocked, ventilation becomes ineffective.
Inspectors check whether intake vents are clear and whether exhaust vents are functioning and properly placed. They may look for signs of heat buildup in the attic, like overly dry wood, cracked framing, or insulation that looks baked.
Balanced ventilation helps prevent condensation, reduces the risk of mold, and can even extend shingle life by keeping attic temperatures more stable.
Bathroom fans and ducting: a common source of attic moisture
One surprisingly common issue is bathroom fan ducting that ends in the attic instead of venting outside. That warm, moist air can condense on cold surfaces and create mold that looks like a roof leak.
During a roof/attic inspection, it’s normal to check where ducts terminate and whether connections are secure. Loose ducts can dump moisture into the attic even if they’re “supposed” to vent outside.
If you’ve noticed frost in the attic during winter or a persistent musty smell, ducting and ventilation are prime suspects worth checking early.
Signs of ice dam risk: what inspectors look for before winter hits
Ice dams form when heat escapes into the attic, melts snow on the roof, and the water refreezes at the colder eaves. This can create a ridge of ice that traps water, pushing it under shingles and into the home.
Inspectors look for uneven insulation, blocked soffits, and roof edge conditions that make ice dams more likely. They may also ask about past winter issues, like icicles, water staining, or recurring leaks during freeze-thaw cycles.
Preventing ice dams is usually a combination of better insulation, improved ventilation, and sometimes targeted roof edge solutions. Catching the risk factors early is much easier than dealing with water damage mid-winter.
Workmanship and previous repairs: checking what’s been done before
Patch jobs, mismatched shingles, and exposed fasteners
Not all repairs are created equal. Inspectors often find old patch jobs that solved a problem temporarily but introduced new weak points—like exposed nails, heavy caulking where flashing should be, or shingles installed in a way that disrupts water flow.
Mismatched shingles aren’t just an aesthetic issue. If the wrong shingle type was used (or installed incorrectly), it may not seal properly or may age differently than the surrounding roof, creating uneven wear.
Exposed fasteners are a red flag because they can loosen over time and create entry points for water. A proper inspection notes these areas so they can be corrected before they become leaks.
Flashing shortcuts: where “a bit of sealant” isn’t enough
Sealant has its place, but it shouldn’t be the primary waterproofing strategy around key transitions. If an inspector sees thick beads of caulk around chimneys or vents, they’ll often dig deeper to see if flashing is missing or failing.
Temperature swings and UV exposure cause sealants to crack and shrink. If the underlying flashing system isn’t correct, the leak will come back—usually at the worst possible time.
When you’re reviewing inspection notes, pay attention to any mention of “improper flashing” or “temporary repair.” Those phrases typically mean it’s worth fixing properly sooner rather than later.
Roof layers and ventilation changes from past projects
Some homes have more than one layer of shingles. While local codes and best practices vary, extra layers can add weight and sometimes hide decking issues. Inspectors may note the number of layers and whether it’s affecting performance.
Past renovations can also change ventilation patterns. For example, adding insulation without maintaining soffit airflow can increase moisture risk. Or installing new vents without proper intake can create short-circuiting where air doesn’t move as intended.
A good inspection considers the roof as a system that’s evolved over time—not just what’s visible today.
Storm and seasonal damage: what gets checked after rough weather
Wind damage: lifted shingles and broken seals
Wind doesn’t always rip shingles off dramatically. Often it breaks the adhesive seal, lifts edges, and allows water to get underneath. After a windy day (especially with gusts), inspectors look for shingle tabs that don’t lie flat or that move more than they should.
They’ll also check ridge caps, which can be vulnerable to wind if they weren’t installed with proper fastening or if aging has made them brittle.
If you suspect wind damage, it’s smart to document it quickly with photos from the ground. That can help if you end up filing an insurance claim.
Hail impact: bruising you can’t always see from the driveway
Hail can cause dents, cracks, and “bruises” in shingles where granules are knocked loose. Sometimes the damage isn’t obvious until you’re up close, and it can shorten the roof’s lifespan by exposing the asphalt layer to UV.
Inspectors look for consistent impact patterns, soft spots, or granule loss in clusters. They may also check metal components like vents, flashing, and gutters for dings—those can be easier indicators that hail hit hard enough to matter.
Even if you don’t see leaks right away, hail damage can lead to premature aging. That’s why post-storm inspections are useful even when everything seems fine.
Heavy rain and pooling: low-slope trouble spots
If parts of your roof are low-slope or flat (common on additions or porches), inspectors check for ponding water, membrane wear, and seam integrity. Standing water accelerates wear and can find its way into tiny gaps.
They’ll also inspect transitions between roof types—where a steep-slope roof meets a low-slope section—because these areas need careful detailing to stay watertight.
After heavy rain, look for overflowing gutters, water marks on exterior walls, and any dampness around windows near rooflines. These clues help narrow down where water might be getting in.
How to read an inspection report without feeling overwhelmed
Separating “monitor” items from “fix now” items
A helpful inspection report doesn’t just list issues—it prioritizes them. Some findings are maintenance reminders (like cleaning gutters or resealing a small area), while others are urgent (active leaks, significant flashing failure, or structural concerns).
If your report doesn’t clearly categorize urgency, ask. A simple “What needs attention in the next 30 days?” versus “What can wait until next season?” can make planning a lot easier.
Also ask what the likely outcome is if you do nothing. Understanding the risk helps you decide where to put your budget first.
Photos, measurements, and plain-language explanations
Photos are gold. They let you see what the inspector saw and make it easier to compare changes over time. If you’re getting multiple quotes, photos also help different contractors talk about the same exact issue.
Measurements—like the approximate area of damaged shingles or the length of compromised flashing—help you understand scope. Even rough numbers can keep estimates consistent and prevent surprises.
Finally, don’t be shy about asking for a plain-language rundown. Roofing terms can be confusing, and you deserve to understand what’s happening on your own home.
Repair vs. replacement: the decision points that matter
Not every problem means you need a new roof. Many issues are localized and can be repaired effectively, especially if the roof is otherwise in good shape and not near the end of its lifespan.
Replacement becomes more likely when problems are widespread, when shingles are brittle and failing across multiple areas, or when the roof is old enough that repairs become frequent and less cost-effective.
A good inspector will explain the “why” behind their recommendation. You should feel comfortable asking what options exist at different budget levels and what each option means for longevity.
Choosing the right help: what to look for in a roofing team
Local experience and climate knowledge
Roofing isn’t one-size-fits-all. A team that understands local weather patterns—wind corridors, heavy snow seasons, freeze-thaw cycles, and summer heat—will know which details matter most for durability.
They’ll also be familiar with common issues in your area, like ice dam risk, ventilation patterns in certain home styles, or typical flashing failures around older chimneys.
If you’re comparing contractors, ask what problems they see most often in your neighborhood and what preventative steps they recommend. The best answers will sound specific, not generic.
Clear scope, honest recommendations, and workmanship you can trust
A solid roof inspection should lead to a clear scope of work if repairs are needed. That includes what will be fixed, what materials will be used, and what areas will be protected during the work.
It’s also a good sign when a contractor explains multiple options—like a short-term repair versus a more durable upgrade—without pressuring you. Roofing is a major home expense; you should feel informed, not rushed.
If you’re looking for a team that can handle everything from small fixes to more involved work, it can help to review providers that offer complete roof repairs so you’re not juggling multiple companies for related issues like flashing, vents, and leak tracing.
Getting help in Dundas and nearby communities
If you’re in Dundas, having someone nearby can make a difference—especially when you need a quick post-storm assessment or you’re trying to time repairs between weather windows. Local crews are also more likely to understand the quirks of housing styles in the area and the drainage patterns that come with older neighborhoods.
When you’re ready to book a professional inspection or address issues you’ve found on your checklist, consider working with Dundas roofers who can evaluate the roof system as a whole and explain what’s urgent versus what can be planned.
And if you’re just outside Dundas—maybe you’re comparing notes with family across town or you own property in another neighborhood—having access to nearby expertise matters too. Homeowners in adjacent areas can also reach out to Ancaster roofing professionals for inspections and repairs suited to the same regional weather challenges.
Your homeowner roof inspection checklist (easy to save and revisit)
From the ground (monthly quick scan)
Start with what you can safely see. Walk around your home and look at the rooflines from multiple angles. Use binoculars if you have them. You’re looking for anything that breaks the pattern: missing shingles, crooked lines, dark patches, or debris buildup.
Check gutters and downspouts for overflow marks, sagging sections, or heavy granule buildup. Look at fascia boards for peeling paint or soft spots. These are early hints that water isn’t moving the way it should.
After storms, do this scan again. Wind and hail damage are easiest to address when caught early, before water finds a path inside.
Inside the attic (seasonal check)
In the attic, bring a flashlight and take your time. Look for staining on wood, damp insulation, or any sign of mold. Pay attention around roof penetrations like vent stacks and chimneys.
Check that bathroom fan ducts are connected and venting outside. If you see frost in winter or moisture on nails, that can indicate ventilation or insulation issues that need attention.
Also look for daylight shining through the roof deck. A tiny pinhole of light can become a big leak under the right conditions.
Inside living spaces (ongoing awareness)
Keep an eye on ceilings and upper walls for discoloration, bubbling paint, or peeling drywall tape. Notice any musty smells that appear after rain or during humidity swings.
If you have a skylight, check the surrounding drywall and trim. Skylight leaks can be subtle at first and may show as staining at corners.
If something changes, take a photo and note the date and weather conditions. That context can help a roofer diagnose the issue faster.
Common questions homeowners ask during an inspection (and helpful answers)
“Is my roof leak definitely coming from where the stain is?”
Not always. Water can enter at one point and travel along framing before it shows up in your ceiling. That’s why attic inspection and tracing water paths matters so much.
Roofers often look “uphill” from the stain and check common entry points like valleys, flashing, and penetrations. They may also look for multiple small issues that combine during certain weather.
If your leak only happens during wind-driven rain, that’s a clue that flashing or shingle seals may be involved rather than a simple hole.
“How long does a roof inspection take?”
It depends on the roof size, complexity, and accessibility. A straightforward inspection might take under an hour, while a complex roof with multiple penetrations, skylights, or suspected leaks can take longer.
Time is often spent in the attic and around details like chimneys and valleys, not just walking the roof surface. A careful inspection is more valuable than a fast one.
If you’re getting an inspection because of a specific problem, expect the inspector to ask questions and potentially take photos and notes for a clear action plan.
“What should I do before the inspector arrives?”
If possible, clear access to the attic hatch and move any stored items out of the way. If you know where staining has appeared, point it out—photos help too, especially if the stain changes with weather.
Outside, make sure gates are unlocked and pets are secured. If you have a detached garage or addition with a separate roof section, mention it so it doesn’t get missed.
And don’t worry about making the roof “look perfect.” Debris and minor mess are normal—what matters is that the inspector can see key areas safely.
With this checklist in hand, you’ll be able to follow along with what’s being inspected, ask better questions, and make confident decisions about maintenance or repairs—without the stress of not knowing what any of it means.